20 November 2021

Walk near Newbury, 7 miles

Friday 9 July

Ray and I both took a day off to meet up for a walk. We both parked at Newbury Wharf and crossed the road to where the bus station now is, next to what I am still calling the “new library” – Newbury Library has occupied the current building since 2000, when it moved from the old Carnegie building on Cheap Street where we used to go as kids.

Ray had thought it might be fun to use a rural bus service as part of our walk and had unearthed the number 5 services that stop at various villages north of Newbury. We got the 10:25 and got off at the entrance to Snelsmore Common, a country park north of Newbury where we often used to get taken as kids for a run about/blowing off of the cobwebs, etc. We found a bench and sat for a while to have a flask of coffee and moan about our excess weight issues, while scoffing an entire packet of Duchy Originals shortbread biscuits between us.

Waiting at the bus station
Just got off the bus
Common views

The plan was to walk from the common back into Newbury via Donnington Castle, but we had some trouble finding the right path to lead us out to Donnington, as evidenced by the two doglegs visible in the upper part of the route map. We eventually found the correct path.

Our route

This walk between Snelsmore and Donnington Castle was one we did several times as a family in my young day. Since then, the route has been altered by the construction of the A34 Newbury bypass in the interim, which now slices a neat gouge through what was formerly farmland north of Donnington. The footpath route has been retained, but now involves crossing the road by means of a footbridge. It emerges by what was once the buildings of Castle Farm – there’s a sign on a now-derelict barn about the farm’s Limousin herd, which I think Mum said she remembers seeing grazing in the area.

Path towards Donnington
Bridge over the A34
Donnington Castle

The Newbury bypass opened in 1998, after what seemed like many years of debate about whether, and if so where, it should be built. The eventual route passes to the west of the town and cut through three Sites of Special Scientific Interest. Progress, etc. My clearly quite old OS Explorer map labels the road as ‘Due to open late 1998’.


After looking at the castle, we turned back in the direction of the A34, past Castle Wood and crossing the road via a different footbridge into the village of Bagnor. This was a bit of a detour as Ray had been seized with a desire to locate the trackbed of the former Lambourn Valley Railway.

Crossing the bypass again
Bagnor

The route of the railway just here is well concealed and took a bit of finding, but Ray did manage to locate it. The trackbed itself was obscured by a lot of branches and general growth - I didn't fancy fighting my way through it, but Ray did and took the picture below, which we agreed was almost certainly the old railway.

Consulting the map, somewhere near Bagnor
Ray going for it
The trackbed

We turned back towards Newbury, passing through Woodspeen and crossing under the bypass, then via Speen Lane and past the leisure centre back into the town.

The bypass yet again
The last stretch near Speen

10 July 2021

More books I have read

‘We Need To Talk About Kevin’ by Lionel Shriver

Look, I finally read it, OK.

The novel is set out in the form of a series of letters written by Eva Khatchadourian to her husband Franklin, from whom we initially assume she is separated. To reduce things to a nutshell: Eva is a formerly successful businesswoman with a series of published travel guides. Following her son Kevin murdering a bunch of his classmates a few years earlier, followed by a legal case brought against her by one of the classmate’s parents, Eva has fallen on harder times and is now living alone and working a low-level job at a travel agency.

I thought ‘Kevin’ was a very good read, though I did have a few pedantic gripes with it. Good things: Shriver is an excellent writer and doesn’t shy away from treating a difficult topic - the topic being not the school killings but the idea of a mother not engaging with motherhood and indeed the potential for a mother disliking one of her children. For the earlier part of the book, there is a pleasing ambiguity created around Eva and Kevin. To what extent is Kevin’s behaviour towards his mother influenced by his mother’s attitude towards him? We only read Eva’s side of the story. The incident in which she throws Kevin across the room, breaking his arm, is the worst instance of parental violence related in the book; there's another, more minor, incident where she slaps the boy in a restaurant – but were there others beyond these? We’re not to know. What was Eva leaving out? On the other hand, as a reader there’s a level of sympathy for Eva’s frustration – Kevin remains in nappies way beyond the age when he should have done (the arm-breaking incident is provoked by nappy-related frustrations), which could be read either way – Eva clearly feels it’s at least to some extent deliberate, but could it also be a sign of a damaged and disturbed child? I thought this was excellently set up.

However (the gripes largely parallel the good things): although I admire Shriver’s writing I find her excessively verbose. It’s telling that I most enjoy her acerbic Spectator columns, where presumably she’s tightly constrained by word limits. In novels, where presumably she’s less constrained, things can go on a bit. We read The Post-Birthday World in Book Group a few years back – the only other of her novels I’ve read – and I had similar thoughts when reading that. Secondly: the atmosphere built up in the earlier part of the book, as related above, is then, I felt, a bit spoilt by the way the latter part of the book goes. I did feel that the introduction of the second child never quite works: was it intended to demonstrate that Eva is capable of loving a child, just not Kevin? I don’t know, and that device seems a bit simplistic for a writer of Shriver’s quality. Did Eva perhaps not love Celia any more than she loved Kevin, but just found her easier? The story would have been tighter if it had remained centred around Eva and Kevin and the associated ambiguities. The injury that Kevin inflicts on his sister, and his later elaborate murder of his father, sister, classmates and teacher, take Kevin into common-or-garden psycho territory (the glass eye incident is probably the nadir of this) and spoils the earlier ambiguity where we wonder who, him or Eva, is in fact at fault. (Unusually for me, I did guess the twist – that Franklin is in fact dead – about two-thirds of the way through.)

We Need to Talk About Kevin won the Orange Prize for Fiction in 2005. It was voted the UK's favourite Orange prize winner in a Waterstone's poll on the 15th anniversary of the award.

‘The Body: a Guide for Occupants’ by Bill Bryson

Another of Ruth’s books that I’ve ended up reading before she does. I wanted something not-too-heavy-going after reading ‘Kevin’.

The book is divided into chapters each addressing a different function of the body, plus some chapters at the end on disease and medicines. It’s a fascinating read, packed with interesting anecdotes and surprising snippets. How do 3000 people a year in the USA manage to die of food poisoning? How do we have room for 40 feet of alimentary canal? Who knew we had 59 chemical elements within us? (Though these do apparently include things like cadmium, which is toxic and is only there because we absorb it via eating plants, which in turn absorb it from the soil.) And the importance of microbes, which I had never pondered. Both bacteria and viruses are types of microbe, as are protozoa, algae and less well known things like archaea and prions.

Bryson highlights how often significant discoveries seem to have passed unnoticed at the time, and how often the people who made them have not received the credit they deserved. Examples: William Harvey, who in the 17th century theorized that blood circulated around the body from and back to the heart, and was dismissed as ‘crack-brained’; Karl Landsteiner, who discovered that blood came in several types (through noticing which samples clumped and which didn’t), a discovery apparently more or less dismissed at the time, though he was eventually rewarded with a Nobel Prize 30 years later. And the unfortunate Albert Schatz, who discovered streptomycin in the 1940s, but was immediately shafted by his supervisor, who duped Schatz out of his patent rights and took full credit for the discovery, eventually, and gallingly, being awarded a Nobel Prize.

Bryson is great at making this sort of stuff engaging. I’ll probably re-read it at some point.

‘Shipyard Girls at War’ by Nancy Revell

One I picked up at a National Trust secondhand bookshop recently, thinking it looked a bit of a hoot. The ‘Shipyard Girls are Rosie, Polly, Gloria, Dorothy, Angie, Hannah and Martha, who are all working at Thompson’s shipyard in Sunderland in the early 1940s.

Despite the title, the bulk of the story centres on the Elliot household, where shipyard girl Polly lives with her mother Agnes, her brother Joe (discharged from the frontline in North Africa following a leg injury), her sister-in-law Bel and Bel’s two-year-old daughter Lucille. Bel’s husband – the other Elliot son, Teddy, Joe’s twin brother – has recently been killed in action. Within this context, Bel and Joe are the lead players and the book follows their struggles to cope – Bel with the death of her husband, Joe with finding worthwhile activity for himself now that he is unable to return to active duty.

Secondary storylines follow shipyard girls Rosie, the head welder, and Gloria, older than the others and pregnant. Gloria has a number of problems: she is trying to conceal her pregnancy from her bosses at the shipyard and she’s being visited by her violent estranged husband Vinnie, who has found out about the pregnancy and, assuming it’s his, wants to move back in. The father of Gloria’s baby is in fact not Vinnie but the yard manager Jack Crawford, temporarily away in America – which causes more complications. Rosie has a colourful life: she has permanent facial scarring following a ruckus with her late uncle Raymond, a convicted rapist, and she has a second job as part-owner/manager of a brothel. She’s being courted by a Detective Sergeant Miller, whom she likes but is wary of getting too close to in case he finds out about her after-hours work.

This was a fun romp. The Bel-Joe story works out happily and predictably. Gloria succeeds in working to full-term, thanks to Rosie’s machinations, and in fact ends up having the baby in the shipyard painter’s shed. It’s a bit bittersweet as the girls have learned that the ship carrying Jack back to the UK has been bombed and sunk by the Germans, and it’s not yet clear whether he’s among the survivors. I wanted things to work out for Rosie and DS Miller, but this is left annoyingly hanging – she’s given him the brush off, even though she likes him, as she feels It Can Never Work, but he’s determined to win her round.

‘Shipyard Girls at War’ was published in 2017. It’s the second in a series of ten books about the Shipyard Girls, with an eleventh due later this year according to Penguin. Revell has been busy.

‘Girl, Woman, Other’ by Bernardine Evaristo

This won the Booker prize in 2019, jointly with Margaret Attwood’s ‘The Testaments’. The joint thing seemed a bit of a cop-out to me. I mean, make a bloody decision. Presumably every year the judges have the whole “it was a very difficult decision” thing. See Sam Leith’s piece ‘The Booker Prize judges had one job’.

Girl, Woman, Other devotes a chapter each to one of twelve different women, whose lives are intertwined in various different ways. Playwright Amma, Amma’s daughter Yazz and Amma’s friend Dominique. Banker Carole, Carole’s mother Bummi and Carole’s schoolfriend LaTisha. Schoolteacher Shirley (former teacher of Carole, and old schoolfriend of Amma), Shirley’s mother Winsome, and retired schoolteacher Penelope (former colleague of Shirley and former employer of Bummi). Social media influencer Megan/Morgan; Morgan’s great-grandmother Hattie; Hattie’s mother Grace.

The women’s lives span from the late 19th century, when the oldest, Grace, was born, to the present day and 19-year-old Yazz. The book covers issues of race, class, generational differences. With the exception of Penelope – and we learn something interesting about her towards the end – the characters are all black or mixed race. Most were born in the UK but Bummi and Winsome are first generation immigrants. It’s a very engaging read and surprisingly comprehensible for a Booker winner. I did have to do a bit of looking back to link up a name with somewhere I thought I’d seen it before in the book – but not too arduous really. I’d be interested to read some of Evaristo’s other novels.

23 May 2021

Walk via Marsh Benham and Stockcross, 4.3 miles

Sunday 2 May

I drove over to Kintbury and parked at the car park near the lock, and Ray drove us back over towards Newbury for this walk. He parked on a piece of wide verge by the B4000, just off the roundabout with the A4 and the slip road onto the northbound A34 Newbury Bypass.

We walked up the B-road a short way before turning left to follow a footpath across a field to come out by the A4. We then had to walk westwards along the road for a bit, before crossing the road and going through a cute little gate set into the wall of Benham Park, marked as a public footpath.

The gates of Benham Park

The little gate in the wall

The current house at Benham Park was built in the 1770s for the 6th Baron Craven, designed by the architect Henry Holland, the business partner and son-in-law of Capability Brown. The Wikipedia page currently has a picture of the house dated 1904, which shows the additional wing on the left that was later demolished during substantial alternations in 1914. It was the family home of the Sutton family from the late nineteenth century up until the early 1980s, when they sold it and it was converted into offices by the Norwegian IT company Norsk Data

It seems to have remained offices until about ten years ago. It went on the market in 2017 for 26 million, at which point it had permissions either to be returned to use as a private country house or to be turned into a wellness centre. I don’t know who bought it or what it’s currently being used for. We got the impression there might be some works going on there, but we couldn’t get close enough to the house to see much.

The public footpath through trees

The public footpath leads through trees along the northern edge of the park, then crosses open parkland to join the road that runs through the middle of the estate. Here you can see what was at one point the route leading from the West Lodge at the far northwestern tip of the estate – I seem to remember it being rumoured locally that the splendid gate piers at this entrance were haunted by a ghostly horseman (possibly plus carriage). It just looks like a grassy path over a field now, but the route is clearly visible on Google Maps.

We turned right and bore round past houses to exit the park at another set of gates near Benham Park Stud. We walked along the minor road here past The Red House, which looked to be doing good business in its garden. After a short way we turned right onto a footpath leading over a field, past some major chicken operations. This came out on a minor road near some farm buildings.

Gates

Buildings at Benham Park Stud
Chickens

We crossed the A4 and walked north up Nalderhill Road. We turned right onto a footpath leading through a rape field and then into woodland, where we followed the path and then a minor road back to the B4000. We turned right and followed the road through Stockcross back to the car.

Walking back through Stockcross

Our route below, with the start and end point on the right.

4 May 2021

North Norfolk: Will We Get There?

Ruth and I are due – fingers crossed – to be Actually Going on Holiday next Monday. (Or on a ‘staycation’, given that that word seems to have been recently redefined to encompass holidaying within the UK, by people who think it’s not a proper holiday unless you fly somewhere and roast yourself on a beach for two weeks).

We had booked a week in north Norfolk for May 2020, following an enjoyable stay in the area in May 2019 (of which more below), but the first COVID lockdown meant that we couldn’t go, so we rebooked for May 2021. At the start of 2021 we were both somewhat gloomy about whether we’d even be able to go this year, but thankfully the dates announced in the government’s ‘roadmap’ have allowed self-catering breaks with members of your own household from 12 April. We’ll just miss the next roadmap date of 17 May when we would have actually been able to eat INSIDE a pub or restaurant, but we’re so pleased to be going at all that that’s frankly a small price to pay. And it’ll no doubt mean the trip works out cheaper.

We had an encouraging email from the company we’ve booked with and are just waiting for that arrival information sometime this week.

I won’t say anything more about the upcoming booking in case I jinx it, but will say a few words about the May 2019 holiday as I don’t seem to have published the post I drafted at the time.

Where we stayed

The Triumphal Arch

We were looking for somewhere within reach of the coast near Holkham, as Ruth had sung the praises of the beach there, plus my parents had been to Wells-next-the-Sea a few times and liked the area. While searching for places to stay in the area, I came across the Holkham Lodges, four little holiday lets, all only sleeping two. The Triumphal Arch, where we stayed, is just outside the southern boundary of the estate, placed towards the southern end of the long straight avenue that runs through the estate. The other four are converted estate lodges. The rentals are arranged through SALT Norfolk.

The arch is adorable and undoubtedly the most quirky place I’ve stayed in. The ground floor has a little kitchen and dining table; there’s then a narrow stone spiral staircase leading to the upper floor, which houses the living area, bedroom plus a bath all in one space. Off the staircase midway are a toilet on one side and a shower area on the other. You would only want to be holidaying there with a partner, as the side of the shower area is a large full-length window overlooking the kitchen below. The holiday accommodation comprises the right-hand side of the lower portion in the picture above, plus the whole of the top floor. We arrived to a charming selection of welcome gifts, including a fairly intimidating artisanal loaf of bread that took an inordinate amount of effort to slice.

Welcome gifts

View from the upper room
Looking down the staircase from the upper room

Despite its inconvenience we both loved it and decided that we would stay there again, albeit it’s possibly better for a short break (we only booked three nights on this occasion) than a full week as the quirky charm of the steep spiral staircase and cramped bathroom conditions could start to pall a bit. The arch is in beautifully peaceful surroundings.

The journey there

The mini-break didn’t start all that well as when I went out to pack the car I discovered that both my car’s wing mirrors had been stolen overnight. While I steamed and vented for a while, Ruth sensibly phoned Motor Serv and sourced me some more, which we duly collected, and I phoned the Wolverton FastFit Station to see if they could do a quick bit of fitting. To cut a longish story short, they did, and after a restorative portion of churros at Café Olé we eventually set off, though we had to cancel the lunch with Ruth’s parents that had been planned for that day as we were running too late by that stage. We did stop at Oxburgh Hall to make use of our NT cards, and had a brief look around and a cream tea.

Oxburgh Hall

First full day

On the first of our two full days there, I went out for a pre-breakfast walk and was charmed to see a hare coming up the road towards me. Never seen one close up before. (S)he stopped when (s)he must have sensed me, but didn’t immediately run the other way. I hadn’t realized how different they look from rabbits – much bigger, with darker fur and striking eyes.

Once breakfasted, we drove to the car park on Lady Anne’s Drive and walked past the funky little ‘Lookout’ to Holkham Beach. Beautiful – huge expanse of sand.

The Lookout
The beach at Holkham

After spending some time walking around there we decided to walk to Wells-next-the-Sea, which takes you along the Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path through a woodland area to the Wells Beach Car Park, and then down Beach Road into the town. We passed a caravan park while walking along Beach Road, which Ruth thought might have been where she once stayed with a friend’s family as a teenager. We had a brief look around Wells and a cup of tea, and then walked back.

Walking to Wells


We had decided we wanted to have dinner at The Victoria Inn in Holkham, I think because we’d seen it reviewed in The Times’ Weekend supplement a while back. Because I wanted to have a drink with dinner, we were obliged to do the walk of around three miles across the park (our stay at Holkham Lodges entitled us to walk around the estate, which was a nice perk). It was a very pleasant walk, but as we’d done quite a bit of walking during the day I seem to remember it feeling like a bit of a trek.

Evening walk across the Holkham estate

I'm sure we had a nice meal but I can't actually remember what I ate. I do remember that some of the meal was taken up with Ruth trying to organise us a taxi back to our rental property. She did manage it, and it duly turned up and drove us home, probably at some expense but neither of us could face the walk back.

Second full day

The first part of our second day was taken up with visiting Walsingham, which I wanted to do for unclear but no doubt deeply spiritual reasons. I seem to remember the Catholic comprehensive in Nottingham I attended for a couple of years organizing trips to Walsingham, but I never went on one, not finding the thought very appealing at 13. In middle age, these places can seem more interesting.

We parked in the public car park in the village and had a wander around. There are two shrines at Walsingham (as well as various other churches and chapels): one Anglican, one Catholic. The Anglican shrine (the Shrine of our Lady of Walsingham) is in the village itself; the Catholic shrine (the Slipper Chapel) is about a mile away at Houghton St Giles but you can walk to it, as we did, along the Pilgrim Way, part of the route of the former Wells and Fakenham Railway. The two shrines form an unexpected contrast to each other as the Anglican shrine is very ornate and ‘high church’ (photo below of one of its chapels) while the Slipper Chapel is an unassuming building with a plain and simple interior.

Chapel at the Anglican shrine

Me near a cross

We had a drink at The Bull, but it wasn’t serving food so we ended up returning to the Anglican shrine and having lunch in the café there. After lunch we walked the mile or so along the Pilgrim Way to the Catholic shrine and had a look at the Chapel and a browse around the shop. We ended up having to cut our time there a bit short as we were running out of time on the car park ticket - I may go back sometime.

Drink outside at The Bull
Setting out along the Pilgrim Way
The Slipper Chapel

The reason Walsingham is awash with shrines to the Virgin Mary is that she allegedly appeared nearby to one Richeldis de Faverches, in 1061. The British Pilgrimage Trust lists various possible Pilgrim Ways to Walsingham; you can download the routes in GPX format for your smartphone. There’s moving with the times.


Before leaving Walsingham we paid a quick visit to the ruins of Walsingham Abbey.


Later that day we visited the grounds of the Holkham estate and had a meander around the huge walled garden.

The walled garden

The journey back

The following day we packed up and visited Holt for an hour or so, before driving south to visit Ruth's parents for the postponed lunch. As we got further into inland Norfolk Ruth became gloomy and started muttering about sugar beet country. We were both agreed that we really like the north Norfolk coast, though, and are hoping to return.