7 September 2023

More books I have read recently

'Where the Crawdads Sing' by Delia Owens

This book has rather a ‘Written For Book Groups’ stamp all over it. Or possibly I’m just being cynical – it was a book that Mum’s book group read a few years ago and one of our members more recently put it on our list.

From the age of ten, Catherine ‘Kya’ Clark has lived all by herself in a shack out in the marshlands by the North Carolina coast, following the departures of successively her mother, four older siblings and finally her drunk and abusive father. In the nearby town of Barkley Cove, she’s referred to as a ‘swamp rat’ and then later as the Marsh Girl. Aged six and fetched by the truant officer to be taken to school, she attends school for a single day, is mocked by some of the other children and never attends again, hiding in the marshes from the truant officers until they stop calling.

Aged fourteen, she’s befriended by Tate Walker, an older boy who lives in Barkley Cove with his widowed fisherman father. Tate shares Kya’s interest in the marsh and its wildlife, and teaches Kya to read. Inside her shack, Kya has built up a large and meticulously labelled and illustrated collection of feathers, shells, bones and other things she has found out on the marshes. When Tate goes to college to study to be a research biologist, he promises to come back soon to visit her, but finds himself becoming immersed in a different world into which he cannot see Kya fitting, and hating himself for it, breaks off contact with her.

Desperate for company, and concurrently having blossomed into a tall attractive young girl, Kya catches the eye of local high school alpha Chase Andrews, and they begin a relationship, though Chase is careful to keep his relationship with Kya entirely separate from his life in town. Musing: I thought there was some inconsistency in how Chase’s character was drawn. When Kya first meets him, although good-looking and socially blessed he doesn’t seem a particularly bad young man. He appreciates the shell necklace that Kya gifts him, and after initial over-enthusiasm he promises to wait until she’s ready before jumping her. However, we have already learned, right at the beginning of the book, that Chase is dead, his body discovered out in the marsh, and one strand of the story, set in the late 1960s, follows the Barkley Cove police as they try to solve the crime. The other strand of the story traces Kya’s life from when we meet her in 1952, aged six, through to adulthood.

Owens’ writing about nature and the marshlands is quite evocative. The story itself was a bit too stuffed with formulaic trauma – partway through reading it, I thought: right, now we’ve had domestic violence and some racism, how about an attempted rape to form a hat trick? Hop a few chapters on, and bingo. But having said all that, I did quite enjoy the book, and the ending packs a reasonable twist.

‘Where the Crawdads Sing’ was published in 2018. Delia Owens apparently grew up near rural wilderness of a similar type to the one she describes in the novel, and was formerly a zoologist.

What are crawdads, anyway? The word isn’t mentioned until page 111 – turns out it’s part of an expression meaning a remote part of the marsh, as in “way out there where the crawdads sing”. From skim-reading a few interviews, it’s evidently an expression that Owens’ mother used to use to her.

'The Power of Habit' by Charles Duhigg

I started reading this a while ago but didn’t get further than the first couple of chapters. Decided to give it another go. It’s about understanding how habits work, as a step to being able to change them. Which sounded quite useful, though like a lot of books of this type, particularly American ones (which most of them are), it does Go On A Bit. Even on this second go I didn’t find it exactly a page-turner.

The Prologue introduces the idea that habits show up in the brain as neurological patterns, and that it is possible to overlay these with new patterns. The book is then divided into three parts: habit formation within individuals; within companies, and within societies.

The first chapter talks about the basal ganglia, apparently an old, central, area of the brain that are key to habit formation. Duhigg relates the story of a man who lost his memory due to viral encephalitis, but was still able to form new habits as his basal ganglia were intact. In the chapter ‘The Craving Brain’, the book discusses the idea that habit formation is dependent on the establishment of a craving for some sort of reward. In the chapter ‘The Golden Rule of Habit Change’, this idea is developed into a claim that the key is to keep the same cue and the same reward, but insert a new routine. Duhigg illustrates this both in relation to the approach taken by the American football coach Tony Dungy, and the philosophy behind Alcoholics Anonymous.

I was initially less interested in the chapters about organizational habits, until Duhigg discusses the 1987 King’s Cross fire in the 'The Power of a Crisis', specifically the culture and working practices in the London Underground of the time which led to the fire being much more of a disaster than it potentially needed to be. Later in the book there’s some stuff about habits influencing shopping decisions, and how getting people to accept something new is easier if it’s dressed up as though it’s familiar. In the Appendix, Duhigg says that there isn’t a one size fits all formula for changing habits, as everyone’s habits are driven by different cravings. Which was a bit disappointing, as most readers would be picking up the book in the hope that it would give them a formula for changing habits.

I did find the idea of ‘keystone’ habits quite useful – habits that have the power to start a chain reaction. (Duhigg reckons that for many people, exercise is a keystone habit that triggers widespread change.) I’m not sure the book is one I’ll be referring back to though.

'The Hacker's Handbook' by Hugo Cornwall

Renewing my mandatory Data Protection and Information Security Awareness training for work recently got me wondering about the Computer Misuse Act 1990, as a message about not contravening this pops up every time I boot up my OU laptop. That led to reading about the 1980s hack of BT’s ‘Prestel’ service (and Prince Philip’s mailbox) by the journalists Stephen Gold and Robert Schifreen, which led to the Act being formed. (Gold & Schifreen themselves had to be charged under the Forgery & Counterfeiting Act 1981, because at that time there were no laws prohibiting computer hacking – and according to the link below that was partly why their prosecution didn’t stick as it was deemed that the “forgery” they were being charged with barely justified the name.) There’s lots online about the Gold and Schifreen hack e.g. this piece, which refers to it as a ‘historic techno romp’.

One of the sources referred to Hugo Cornwall’s book as writing about this hack as one of a number of examples of real-life hacks. I don’t know if THH has been updated over the years but the secondhand copy I bought appears to be an original 1985 copy, which doesn’t mention G and S by name but does refer to a ‘sensational’ hack of the BT Prestel service that happened in late 1984, which I would infer, from reading about it elsewhere, was the same one.

Cornwall’s book was written at an interesting historical point where high-speed (relatively speaking) data networks were taking over from the traditional telecommunications sytems of telegraphy and the telephone. (Never realized that the ‘telex’ was a direct successor of 19th-century telegraphic methods. Don’t think I ever used one – by the time I started work in the early 1990s they had been superseded by the fax.) I was fascinated to learn about “phone phreaking”, apparently a type of techno-romping involving telephone lines that preceded the age when home computers were a thing. Cornwall’s book doesn’t go into much detail about it but there’s information online and on YouTube. Because of its age the book refers to home PCs as “micros” throughout i.e. to contrast with mini-computers (what even were these?) and mainframes. I assume the latter was along the lines of what we had at my first job at ICI in The Computer Room, a hive of massive electronic chuggery managed by a specially dedicated chap. I was only required to type away at the little terminal on my desk so was never required to actually understand what happened within TCR.

I hadn’t realized that modems were even available to home users in the 1980s, but evidently they were though I’ve no idea what the relative cost would have been (Cornwall advises budding hackers to make use of the secondhand market). Cornwall runs through an overview of what you might need to configure on your home PC to enable easier reading of whatever info you might receive from your chosen host PC. The book references a number of pieces of intriguing-sounding kit that I’d certainly never heard of e.g. acoustic coupler, terminal emulator, baud-rate generator. Also, ‘viewdata’ is referred to a lot – I wasn’t sure what this was but wondered if it was something like a Ceefax page. BT’s Prestel service was evidently a viewdata service, allowing home users to access pages of data via adapted TV sets and incorporated an electronic mail service plus the telebanking service Homelink. Cornwall spends quite a bit of time discussing Prestel, in part because it was evidently a bit of an open goal for hackers.

I enjoyed this little book as a piece of computing history, though the technicalities went over my head. It includes seven appendices aimed at providing assistance and tips for those doing a spot of hacking. In his final chapter, Cornwall opines that "we are on the threshold of a new age of opportunities for the hacker". I wondered whether these had been a bit curtailed by the Computer Misuse Act kicking in five years after this book was written - this made it illegal to gain unauthorized access to a computer, presumably ending the days of fear-free rummaging around organisations’ computer systems.

'Yong Kee of Korea' by Paul Anderson

Mum added this to a small pile of children’s books that she wanted me to look over on a recent visit. I don’t remember how our family came by this book and had no memory of ever reading it – I don’t think it can have been actually brought back from Korea as it’s got a stamp in the front to say that it was donated by the PTA of Oatlands County First School in Weybridge. Probably bought at a jumble sale or fête at some point.

It's a sweet story about a nine-year-old boy who lives in a village with his (nice) parents, and longs to be considered grown up enough to accompany his father up the nearby mountain to help him cut grass to sell/trade at market. In the meantime he has to help his mother do the laundry at a nearby stream, and occasionally gets teased by local girls. Yong Kee is sagely advised by a teacher at his school that wishing for something isn’t enough by itself, and that he has to take action to make it happen.

After pondering for a bit, Yong Kee helps out his father by tying up the grass he’s gathered into bundles. This results in his father making a boy-sized ‘jiggy’ for him from forked branches and, in due course, taking Yong Kee up the mountain to work with him.

(On ‘jiggies’: there’s a piece here on these traditional Korean carrying frames. I think Mum and Dad have a small model of a man with one on his back.)

The other thing I'd either forgotten about or never knew about was the traditional Korean system of birthdays whereby everyone becomes one year older on New Year’s Day, irrespective of what month they were actually born in. (Yong Kee is looking forward to turning nine on New Year's Day, even though he was actually born in May.) The system is explained here. The internet seems to suggest that this traditional system was only abandoned for official and legal documents in June of this year, which seems amazingly recent. Anyway, my calculated Korean age is 56 so I think I’ll be sticking with the Western system.

'Yong Kee of Korea' was first published in 1959. The copy I've got is from 1974.

26 August 2023

Walk from the new Green Park station back into Reading, 4.4 miles

Sunday 9 July 2023

Amazed that this new little railway station actually opened in May this year, as I’m sure it was proposed years ago but I’d started to assume that it wouldn’t actually happen.

The new Reading Green Park station

Green Park is a business park on the south side of Reading that opened in the late 1990s. Much more recently, a large amount of housing (being marketed as ‘Green Park Village’) has been built alongside. The business park is quite pleasant – landscaped around a lake, etc – but I’m not sure of its state of health since the big move to homeworking.

I had no particular reason to be going to Green Park but I had the free time on a Sunday in July and fancied a bit of a walk, so I took a train out to the new station. On the ticket machine and on rail apps, the new station is labelled ‘Reading Green Park’, I assume to avoid confusion with the London tube stop.

I walked from the station around the lake and stopped at Triple Two Coffee for a peach iced tea. Not the sort of thing I normally consume but it was a warm morning. The café looked to have quite a nice breakfast menu.

After leaving the café I walked through some of the new residential streets. Not really a fan of the ‘New England’-style boarded housing – and the streets felt very cramped – but I’m sure it’ll have its takers. I walked along Longwater Avenue out of Green Park to the A33. Crossed this and walked along Smallmead Road into the Kennet Island development, built a few years back on the site of the old sewage works. Came out onto the 'old' Basingstoke Road (the former A33) and turned left towards town.

This stretch of road has never been the smartest but I always find urban streets quite interesting. The picture is of the lingering pub sign outside what’s now flats. The former building was most recently a grotty-looking Chinese restaurant called the Eastern Pearl, which had been empty for some time, and was originally a pub called The Four Horseshoes.

Pub sign on the site of The Four Horseshoes

Followed the road to where it joins Christchurch Road at the Hindu temple and then turned down Southampton Street to the Oracle Riverside.

Old and new street signs

Route below. Start point in green bottom left.

17 June 2023

Walk with Ray via Bisham Woods and Cookham Dean, 6.8 miles

Monday 29 May (the Spring Bank Holiday)

We started this walk with a spot of disused road interest. Well, renamed road, in this case. Ray had to call in briefly to his employer’s premises and after this we stopped briefly on Hurley Lane where I took this picture of a road sign alerting drivers that they’ll be joining an A-road a short way ahead. The road in question hasn’t been the A423 since the early 1990s, when it was renamed the A4130. I guess the sign is in too insignificant a spot to be worth worrying about. Hurley Lane is a tiny road probably only used by residents and by locals who know it's a cut through to the A404.

For our walk, Ray parked in a layby on the A404 near Bisham that’s long been notorious for cruising – it happened to be a convenient parking spot for this walk and at the time we parked up was almost empty. The layby directly borders Temple Golf Club; when Ray worked at the club in the 1990s, there was an amusing, if possibly apocryphal, story circulating of a lady member coming across a scene in the undergrowth that she hadn’t expected and having to be revived with smelling salts or similar. Vegetation is cleared around the layby at intervals to discourage the chaps.

Leaving the layby on the A404 to start our walk
Following the newish bridleway

Walking out of the layby, we were able to take what Ray says is a fairly new bridleway (certainly my OS map doesn’t show it as such) leading off the eastern end of Hurley Lane and running alongside, but separated from, the A404 to come out on Bradenham Lane leading down to Temple village. Certainly nicer than walking/cycling along the edge of the dual carriageway for a short stretch, as you’d have had to do previously.

Bradenham Lane

We followed Bradenham Lane down to Temple village and followed the lane round to where it comes out on Bisham Road. We crossed and walked down The Green, which at one point, before the construction of the Marlow bypass in the early 1970s, ran through to what is now the marooned collection of houses labelled as ‘Bisham Under the Wood’. Ray noted that years ago, he and fellow greenkeepers from nearby Temple used to drive down this lane and store some equipment on some land owned by his then boss’s sister-in-law’s husband. The lane is now blocked off to traffic once you get past the houses at the village end. We briefly peered over the fence to look at the bit of land in question, but it’s all overgrown now.

Abandoned shed formerly used for storage

Ray had been hoping there’d be a tunnel under the A404 at this spot, but there isn’t, so we followed the footpath that leads along the edge of a field, then crossed the field to head towards something labelled on my map as ‘Flood Tunnels’, hoping they were also foot tunnels. Indeed they are, since 2005, according to a plaque at the end of one of them. The tunnel appears to be named the Bowdery Archway, after a member of the local Ramblers who led the campaign to open a footpath through it.

Crossing a field
Tunnel under the A404 Marlow bypass
The plaque

After walking through the tunnels we entered Bisham Woods and followed various paths, some quite hilly, to come out on Hockett Lane in Cookham Dean. Bisham Woods run along a ridge and comprise several smaller woods including Quarry Wood, Fullness Wood and Inkydown Wood.

Path in Bisham Woods

After leaving the wood we walked along roads through Cookham Dean and then joined a path crossing Cookham Dean Common, which was lovely. We then followed Winter Hill Road for a bit and dipped briefly onto the Maidenhead Boundary route to come out on Golden Ball Lane. We stopped off at the Golden Ball in vague hopes of getting lunch, but they had a private event on so weren't doing food. We had a nice cold drink though.

Cookham Dean Common

After leaving the pub we crossed the road and took a footpath leading off opposite - one I don't think I'd been down before, and I think Ray said he'd last been down it as a teenager. It eventually comes out at a junction of tiny lanes. We followed Dungrove Hill Lane back to the A404, passing under the road for a second time and walking back up a short spur of road back to the layby.

Dungrove Hill Lane
Our second tunnel under the A404

Ray said that at one point the lane off Burchetts Green roundabout, which currently leads to Temple Golf Club's greenkeeper sheds and then ends, used to be connected to this bit of road. Have just had a go at finding an old map online that shows this, but haven't managed it yet. It looks plausible, from Google Maps, though must have been before the golf course was constructed.

As we approached the layby where we'd parked, we passed a number of lone men standing on the grass verge just out of sight of the road, nonchalantly looking at their phones. I mean. IN BROAD DAYLIGHT.

Our route shown here:

11 May 2023

Holiday #1 in 2022: Norfolk again

16-22 May 2022

As we’re about to set off this coming Friday for our fourth trip to north Norfolk, I thought I’d better sort out blogging our third, now a year ago.

I’m not really sure now why we opted to stay in King’s Lynn. It would be a better spot for a long weekend than for a week’s stay, as it isn’t conveniently located for the north Norfolk coastal villages and beaches, something we hadn’t fully realized before we booked, though we ought to have done. Between where the Great Ouse discharges into the Wash at King’s Lynn, and the village of Snettisham, there are no coastal footpaths, only marshland with farm tracks and isolated properties (with names like ‘Estuary Cottages’) marked on the map. Sidebar: seemingly you can walk this stretch of coastline if you are a robust enough personality to plough merrily on through ‘No Access’ signs – I am not but this woman clearly was. Aside from the isolation and trespass element, it would be a long walk in what sounds like not especially rewarding terrain. This Eastern Daily Press article from 2020 noted a possible plan for opening up this bit of coastline to walkers, but I don’t know whether this was ever made official. On my newly-purchased OS Explorer 250, there were no public footpaths marked across this stretch of land, so we didn’t attempt it.

King’s Lynn is an interesting old town and has some impressively old-looking buildings and quaint cobbled streets. The quayside area is smart and has clearly had some money spent on it. The town’s main shopping area isn’t and had a faintly depressed air. We didn't spend any time in it other than to catch buses from the bus station and buy groceries.

The town is apparently known locally just as 'Lynn', with the 'King's' bit being just for tourists and maps.

In another instance of carelessly inadequate research, I had purchased OS Explorer map 236 (pictured) as the one covering the King’s Lynn area. It does indeed include the town, but right at the top of the map – most of the map’s coverage is inland area. The type of fenland landscape shown in the part below is no doubt interesting but not really where we had planned to spend our time, despite such enticing labels as 'Marshland' and 'Black Ditch Level'. The long straight channel of water is 'Middle Level Main Drain', which joins the Great Ouse just past the top right of this snip.

Thankfully I did open the map prior to the trip and realised my mistake, so just had to purchase map 250 'Norfolk Coast West' as well. All set.

Where we stayed

The Vault, St James Street, King's Lynn

This was a one-bedroom self-catering rental, one of several flats in a converted bank. It was a ground floor flat with a mezzanine housing the bed. I think Ruth booked it via TripAdvisor, but it seems to be offered on several different sites: here it is on booking.com. There was no parking with it but thankfully there was an NCP car park just across the road and I prepared myself by paying for the week’s parking in advance.

Good things: it was a decent spec and is well placed for what seemed to be the most attractive bits of King’s Lynn including the old quayside. Slight whinges (they weren't major, though enough to make us probably not stay there again): despite the high ceilings it has a slightly ‘shut in’ feel, probably inevitably given that it's right on the street so the windows have blinds over them; it had an annoyingly flimsy dining set which not only involved mounting stools (never my favourite) and but also necessitated sitting quite still and taking care not to knock anything in case the whole thing collapsed. Why on earth the owners haven’t put in a proper dining table I’ve no idea – the floor space is quite limited but I would have thought there was room for something more solid even if it was small. It also had – like our Devon rental the previous autumn – an induction hob; I’m sure these are really great and if you have one at home, obviously you can take time to work it out and get used to it. However, they're not easy to get to grips with in a hurry as to the uninitiated, the rings have an annoying habit of just turning themselves off whenever they feel like it. Think that’s about it. Also, Ruth’s head fell foul a couple of times of the metal bar visible in the Booking.com photo of the bedroom.

 

Journey up and arrival

On the way up, we stopped off at Wicken Fen, a nature reserve and SSSI south of Ely. There’s a café there, where we had lunch before going for a bit of a walk around the reserve. It was a nice sunny day and a very interesting landscape.

The restored windpump
Looking towards the modern windpump
Boardwalk on Sedge Fen

After arriving and parking up we went for a short late afternoon walk to the river. The Great Ouse at King's Lynn is a massive tidal drainage channel, quite different from the pretty meandering river I've often walked along near Wolverton.

The Great Ouse north of Milton Keynes
The Great Ouse at King's Lynn
 

First day: around King's Lynn

We had a look around the Minster and the Museum. We had lunch at Marriott’s Warehouse, a restaurant on South Quay. In the afternoon Ruth joined a ‘Stories of Lynn’ history tour while I went for a walk around, taking in Tower Gardens and The Walks.

The Minster
Gravestones in the Minster churchyard
Marriott's Warehouse on South Quay
Purfleet Quay
Hanseatic warehouse on St Margaret's Lane
 

Second day: walk from Snettisham to Hunstanton

We took Lynx bus 34 to Snettisham, and walked to Hunstanton. This was a walk of just over eight miles, including a mile or so spent walking from the bus stop in the village to the beach.

Snettisham Beach

This was quite a warm walk, from memory, and Ruth certainly got a bit sunburnt. At Hunstanton (it's apparently pronounced "Hunst'n") we had lunch sitting outside at the Golden Lion Hotel. We had a quick wander around - Hunstanton is a traditional ice creams and amusements-type place - and a look at the red and white cliffs, before catching the bus back to King’s Lynn. We went back to Marriott's Warehouse in the evening for dinner.

Third day: Ely

We took the train to Ely to visit the cathedral. Afterwards we had tea in the garden at Peacock’s Tearoom on Waterside, and walked back along the river to the station.

First sighting of the cathedral walking from the station
Inside Ely Cathedral
Peacock's Tearoom
Riverside walk at Ely
 

Fourth day: Burnham Market

Think it was raining, and we felt at a loose end. Took another bus ride, on the Lynx Coastliner 36 service to Burnham Market. We got off the bus by No Twenty9, which I had assumed from Google Maps was a regular café but turned out to be a quite posh restaurant. We ate an expensive but delightful lunch, including pudding.

After lunch we walked from Burnham Market to Burnham Overy Staithe, along roads – couldn’t see a direct footpath – and took the path leading out over the marshes to dunes. Ruth walked all the way out to the dunes to catch a glimpse of the sea; I hung back a bit partly to take photos and partly as I was a bit twitchy about missing our bus back. Curse that cautious nature. We did indeed manage to catch the bus, from a stop by The Hero pub.

Boats at Burnham Overy Staithe
Path leading through marshes towards the sea
Marshes

Fifth and final day: boat trip and scary drainage stuff

We went for a boat trip on the ‘Baden Powell’, out into the Wash. Great trip – only two other passengers, two women (we weren’t sure whether they were friends or a couple). One was a garrulous type who shortly after introductions, confided loudly that her companion was terminally ill – presumably seeing our slightly taken aback expressions, she followed this up quickly with “It’s OK, she’s fine with people knowing”. Companion looked on but said nothing.

Ruth having a go at steering

The three or so chaps who comprised the crew were lovely and gave us all a turn at steering. I think they told us a bit about the process of trying to get funding to maintain the boat, though I've forgotten the details. One of the guys commented that KL’s high street and shopping centre were ‘grim’ and that it was a shame if it puts people off the town.

In the afternoon, we decided to go for a bit of a walk along the river south from the town. This was quite interesting, though not all very attractive and it's a faintly intimidating landscape - perhaps because of the openness; also because of the human intervention in terms of water control in this area. We found ourselves following the Fen Rivers Way for part of the walk; this apparently runs from King's Lynn to Cambridge.

Ruth crossing the Relief Channel Tail Sluice

Some way after the Palm Paper factory we came upon a big contraption spanning a smaller waterway joining the Great Ouse. There's a walkway across it. As we stepped onto it, a recorded message bellowed something at us - I forget what, but something about danger and taking care, I think. Just what my finely-strung nervous system needed. Turns out this structure is the Relief Channel Tail Sluice, built at the downstream end of the Great Ouse Relief Channel. According to this Eastern Daily Press piece from 2012, the Relief Channel was built after the 1947 floods to store excess water from the Great Ouse. The Tail Sluice was completed in 1959 and opened by the Duke of Edinburgh.

We didn't continue further beyond the Tail Sluice as it wasn't looking feasible to make it into a circular walk, so we retraced our steps to King's Lynn and had a lovely cream tea at Cobbles on the quayside.

For our last evening, we went for dinner at the Bank House on King's Staithe Square. Posher than Marriott's Warehouse but I think it left both of us with a slightly "meh" feeling. No memory of what I had.

 

We made our way home the following morning. I shall close this with some of the pointless pieces of ornamentation dotted around The Vault, starting with this velour trio:

And this contraption in the bathroom:

And this, enhanced by my Buff: